Shopping

Sofo is the coolest shopping enclave in Södermalm, showcasing emerging Scandinavian labels.

When I was in Helsinki two years ago I came across this quintessentially Swedish label with the coolest name: 5th Avenue Shoe Repair. The collection is monochromatic with focus on intricate sartorial cuts. It looks extravagant and yet so portable.

I cannot finish this excursus of all Swedish-related things without mention of the home of all homes: IKEA. No need, of course, to pay a visit to this sanctuary of affordable home décor, but I cherry picked some of the classic must-haves for your convenience:

Clockwise from top: The ubiquitous DOCKSTA table, TIRUP swivel chair, IKEA Swedish meatballs and New Printed Fabrics.

Swedish Massage

I would spend the last morning of my trip in a SPA and indulge in a Swedish massage. Sturebadet is an historical SPA which hosted stars of the calibre of Greta Garbo.

If you prefer a more minimal environment, then Yasuragi is where you can spend Zen moments and receive a soothing treatment before boarding your flight home.

The Lady Behind

Originally Italian, AmicaCarmilla has been living in north-west London for too many years with her newly-wed English husband, who works with wines. Alongside her day job in professional publishing, she is an eager yogini with a passion for all sweet things in life: design, fashion, body, & soul, art, travels and funky life style. Her BLOG is a personal collection of quirky findings, all according to AmicaCarmilla’s taste and style. Blogging and reading blogs is indeed one of her favourite past-times. It procures her a vicarious enjoyment and the opportunity to share and love.

Text by Guest Contributor AmicaCarmilla, blogger since 2005. Catch her at www.amicacarmilla.blogspot.com.

Dining

Allmanna Galleriet 925 exudes a certain degree of shabby chic ambience. It is a restaurant, bar and club, all in once.

Sightseeing

I would happily get lost in the cobbled streets of Gamla Stan (the Old Town) and spend a substantial chunk of my time in the galleries and design shops of Skeppholmen, the Museum Island.

The visit would not be complete without a stroll in the up-and-coming district of Kungsholmen and amongst the cutting-edge boutiques and cafes of Södermalm.

If I had to pick one of Stockholm’s many islands, I would choose Djurgården. It is royal parkland, with open-air museums and galleries dotted about.

We continue next week with some shopping and sauna treats from AmicaCarmilla!

Text by Guest Contributor AmicaCarmilla, blogger since 2005. Catch her at www.amicacarmilla.blogspot.com.

Pop Culture

Before visiting a place, I like to immerse myself into its popular culture through films, art, design and food. It is a way of getting into the *globetrotting mode* and fully suck in the zest of it.

Aside one of the most acclaimed Swedish directors, Ingmar Bergman, I appreciate the work of Lasse Hallströmon Chocolat, What’s Eating Gilbert Grape and, above all, Life as a Dog (photo above).

Together is a fun film by Lukas Moodysson exploring the messy dynamics of a modern commune. It is a film of *real feelings*, funny and sweet at once.

Scandinavian design is renowned world-wide. One of the reasons behind its popularity must be linked to the fact that cold climates make you productive and creative. I recently stumbled across this lush Swedish design magazine: Skona hem. If you want to take a peek at original Swedish houses, take a house tour around Swedish designer Benita Larsson’s house. I also recommend a couple of eye-candy design blogs, rigorously made in Sweden: Emma Designblogg and Om Hoom Sthlm. 

Viaggi e Sapori is a food blog created by an Italian lady living in Stockholm and conveniently bilingual (Italian and English). She mainly cooks Italian cuisine, but every now and then she throws in delicious Swedish recipes, such as Yellow Pea Soup, Swedish Potatoes Gratin and Pyttipanna.

We continue next week with dining and some other surprises from AmicaCarmilla!

Text by Guest Contributor AmicaCarmilla, blogger since 2005. Catch her at www.amicacarmilla.blogspot.com.

Stockholmers have an incredible quality of never taking things too far. Whether it’s in design, architecture, fashion or catering, Swedes just seem to achieve the ideal balance. They’ve even got the perfect word for it, lagom, which means ‘just right’. -WALLPAPER

This description wraps up nicely the captivating duality of Stockholm: a cosmopolitan capital taking the foreign influences to heart while retaining self-awareness and Nordic coolness.

First of all, make sure you have a Wallpaper City Guide at hand. It is pocket-size, easy to flick through and at £4.95 inexpensive. I like how the blurb reads: "discreet so that you don’t feel like a tourist"—the worse nightmare of many city-trotters.

Where to stay 

If you feel nautical and wish a sea view, J Sealodge Gashaga is the place for you.

The ship hostel is a quirky alternative with the same ambience at affordable price. Its superb location on a central island and ecological breakfasts are a plus.

Alternatively, Birger Jar Hotel offers contemporary bedrooms, each created by a different local designer. I particularly like the bold prints of suite 621 designed by interior design company Svenskt Tenn.

What to pack

It is a cold country and rather freezing for more than half of the year. It is thus paramount that you keep warm as cold feet may affect the quality of your stay. Even though winter days are so short that you feel obliged to make the most of them, I personally find Nordic cities in the cold months authentically charming. So, assuming you will be visiting in the coming months, the question is: how to be warm while retaining that chic city look?

Snowflakes by Amicacarmilla featuring Dsquared2 accessories

You could take inspiration from the many street style blogs out there, or play safe and pack a technical gear that works also outside the ski runs.

Stockholm city Look by Amicacarmilla featuring Acne jeans

If it is not a minus degree temperature, this practical, vaguely nautical look, will do. We continue exploring Stockhom with AmicaCarmilla next week! Stay plugged!

Text by Guest Contributor AmicaCarmilla, blogger since 2005. Catch her at www.amicacarmilla.blogspot.com.

Le Centquatre 42 is an innovative multi-use space that encompasses studios, showrooms and workshops. The space aims to integrate artistic creative views with the surrounding community, establishing a public space that they hope will aid in the reconstruction of social relations for the 19th arrondissement, a Paris neighborhood known more for poverty and crime than art.

A large scale model of the Centquatre space dominates the lobby where, propped up at knee height, the installation takes on the appearance of a dollhouse. Next to the model is a series of cubby holes filled with miniature building materials. Paul Cox is inviting the viewer to build their own art installations inside the mini gallery to draw on people’s preconceptions regarding authorship and artistic autonomy (the idea that anyone can make art), hopefully inspiring the rest of the community to not only get involved, but to create aspirations beyond the district’s impoverished surroundings. Whilst thought provoking, the installation pokes fun at both the artistic institution and the viewer, who at this point has probably moved on to the far more compelling sight of 100 members of the public performing Tai Chi in the main hall.

Surrounded by artists working on renovations and a series of installations, sculptures and videos, these energetic morning Parisians manage to appear as artists or even art themselves. On further enquiry, one discovers that this ‘performance’ is one of a series organized by the gallery to induct members of the community into artistic expression. This is a truly impressive way of drawing the masses into what could be seen as a conceptually pretentious environment. If this doesn’t provide enough intrigue, then more can be found nestling at the back of the exhibition space in what appears to be a large garden made from crates.

La Table De Jardinage! (The Gardening Table) is an installation involving two dozen landscape gardeners collecting seeds of fruits and vegetables consumed at a picnic to create an ever evolving garden. Gardeners and enthusiasts will tend the space for up to a month before handing over to the next artist or volunteer. The blooms and fruit have already attracted birds and other local wildlife, further impressing the idea of social integration with art.

Whilst Centquatre has some way to go before competing as a major tourist gallery (greater publicity for the space and targeting a wider audience would be a start) the curators have proven that the ghettos surrounding Montmartre are still capable of producing some of Paris most innovative ideas and pieces of work. Having ventured as far out as the Stalingrad metro stop, if you simply can’t bear the thought of leaving Paris without actually entering the Louvre then by all means step in the queue, descend into the pyramid, walk into the centre of the bustle, spend a few reverent minutes staring at the immensity of the foyer and then promptly remove yourself and head for the decorative arts Museum round the corner. Here you will find an incredible range of design, art, craft and true Parisian history including the largest collection of original Toulouse Lautrec posters in the world and the work of Madeleine Vionnet ‘Inspiration for Gucci and Prada’.

Le CENTQUATRE (104) open Tues-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun & Mon 11am-10pm, 104, rue d’Aubervilliers, 75019 Paris http://www.104.fr

Central Market

We begin our journey at the Central Market, near the Central Rail Station a destination where many locals and tourists first arrive. This place has little changed since its opening in 1930, the huge pavilions and people from all over the town and even the country flock here to buy and sell their produce. Here you have dedicated pavilions for fish, meat and dairy products. Stall with fruits and vegetables, and kiosks filled with things ranging from sweets to shoes. A particular social environment has formed around the market and it has always been a barometer of country’s welfare. Everyone will find something new for themselves here!

Riga Castle

The Black Cat House

The Black Cat House in Riga has an interesting story behind it. The house actually has two black cats – one on each of its two towers. During the peak of the Hanseatic League, the owner of the house has not been invited to join the Great Guild for the business leaders of Riga. The headquarters of the guild were directly across the street from his home. He was so deeply upset and insulted that he turned two cats so that their rear ends were pointed towards the Guild building – bringing the bad luck to the people there. Eventually he was invited to join the Guild and the cats returned to their original positions where there still adorn this beautiful house built using famous Jugend style (L’Art Nouveau) elements.

I hope you have enjoyed this scroll around Riga and we will be back again soon with more travels tips from around the world!

The taxi driver promised to deliver me safely to town squire in less than 30 minutes and for the price that would rival London cab fare! Luckily there’s a taxi marshal stand in the terminal building which offers fixed price fare with a 20% discount!

25 minutes later I was in the city center, standing in the beautiful town squire and ready to explore. Started with little streets and shops selling all sort of souvenirs and with the famous Mole (Krtek), a cartoon character, in the windows, I continued to the one of the most spectacular attractions in the city – the Charles Bridge.

This magnificent construction is 516 meters long and nearly 10 meters wide, resting on huge arches protected by ice guards. The building was begun in 1357 under the auspices of King Charles IV and finished in the beginning or 15th century. Always busy during the day with tourist crossing the river Vltava sampling local paintings and souvenirs stalls, but not missing our the most spectacular parts of the bridge -the baroque guard towers and 30 statues and statuaries that decorate it.

The statues are famous for their beauty and style St. Luthgard, St. Crucifix or St. John of Nepomuk are among them. It’s feels surreal, like you’ve stepped back in time. Curious fact is though, that all of the statues have been systematically replaced by replicas and the originals have been exhibited in the lapidarium of the National Museum.

But we’ve got to eat! And to all surprise it’s not going to be traditional Czech food or a boring fast food joint. We are going to eat in a place recommended by our good friend, a place where Prague’s bohemia gathers to sip crimson wine and talk – Art Café U Irmy (Karoliny Světlé 35).

It’s Georgian kitchen, unfairly unrecognized in the world, but great and delicious. The service is friendly and not pretentious. The place is captivating – dark wooden tables, walls are decorated with client signatures and writings from all over the world. We begin with khachapuri – Georgian bread that melts in your mouth leaving you with sensation and astonishment on how good it is.

It’s time to go and we are a little sad to leave this place. On our way back we’ve decided to have a last walk by the river banks. The sun was sharing its last warmth and the evening was approaching fast. In the distance a bright projector was increasingly taking over and we’ve wanted to know what’s going on. We’ve approached Manes bridges and here she was. Young girl, a model, surrounded by assistants and equipment – posing for a photo shoot. She looked very familiar.. We’ve asked who is she and what company is she shooting for, but unfortunately nobody was able or willing to answer.

Perhaps you will be able to help us out to uncover this mystery?

Today, we begin our weekly travel post digest and are taking you out of your chair and onto a quick trip to Amsterdam, capital of Holland. A city that has been reinventing itself throughout the years, always on the edge of the style and art (I guess legalised smoking helps!), while respecting and promoting its historical heritage. A place where we are going to explore some of the most interesting shop windows just in a couple of hours!

We are walking down the canal street. The sun is interrupted by darks clouds and light rain. Our mind wanders around and for a second it feels we are in Venice. You almost can see how the gondolas are gliding on the water and the mysterious couple are wearing long hooded velvet capes.. their faces hidden behind beautiful mask with feathers.. their destination unknown.. the dreams wears off and you can feel your nose pressed against cold glass of a Venetian Mask Shop (Nieuwe Nieuwstraat 29, Amsterdam or www.maskshopvenice.com). The place is breathing with life, mystery and glamour. Alive with colours – gold and silver, shades of velvet and purple, deep and vivid. It calls you to submerge into the mystery. Hide beneath the mask and play a charming game of who-is-who. I think we want to hold Venetian style party very soon!

Sudden ray of light offers a chance to continue exploring. Amsterdam is truly a city of contrasts, as our next stop is a nightmarish fairy tale. The famous De Sprookjeskamer (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 383, Amsterdam or www.desprookjeskamer.nl) welcomes us. Mushrooms, Little Red Riding Hood, dolls, deer and red and white spots are just about on everything that you could imagine are crammed in the little shop space. It feels awkward being here, almost if an old communist era has sprung to life in the middle of Amsterdam, and invaded our beautiful and Disney perfect fairy tale..

Be Nice or Leave is a sign that welcomes us at our last stop. Putting on our best smile and armed with British politeness we enter the world of pictures and it feels like home. You see, Friends of Art (Keizersgracht 510, Amsterdam or www.artunlimited.com) shop loves pictures and so do we. In fact, not only pictures, but greeting cards and posters are to be found here, and the company has an undying enthusiasm for looking for new pictures and publishing the best that it finds. Definitely a great place to get some new cool images and posters for your walls!

We hope you have enjoyed our first little trip into the city of Amsterdam, next we are going to Prague. Catch us Tuesday, 28th July when we are exploring Prague just in two hours!